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 01-20-2006, 16:39 Post: 123094
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 bridge for Island

I have a one acre pond with a 50' X 50' Island in the middle I need to cut grass and landscape. It is about 35' to the edge of the Island from the edge of the pond over water 10' deep. I have thought about steel beams, floating dock mid way, pontoons with ramps. Trying to get out the cheapest way and something I can do with little or no help. Draining the pond will be very diffucult dont want to kill the fish. I turn this over to the great minds I have seen at work on this forum.






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 01-20-2006, 17:50 Post: 123099
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Tried the gator thing but this is southeast Ga did not take us long to eat the gator tails... You do know gators are tail from eyeballs back. another idea was telephone poles but they are hard to come by.






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 01-20-2006, 18:26 Post: 123105
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CB
Thanks the magazine led me to a company KANSAS STRUCTURAL COMPOSITES INC they have photos. It is worth checking out. I may be able to incorperate some of their ideas in to my final design. Did not think of fiberglass. Water proof wont rot. So is Bud cans. You think budlight cans would float better. My supervisor said if I want to be rich follow him and start saving beer cans.






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 01-20-2006, 19:37 Post: 123112
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They use the jet float as a pier on a lake at the sub base where I work. I did not know the manfactures. Went to your link and sent them an e-mail. Bridge, ramp, or dock I am looking for cheapest, and something that functions. I would like to drive the lawnmower over cut and drive back. The jet float will last forever and if somehow damaged, sections can be replaced. Sounds good to me hope they put me in the ball park for a price.






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 01-20-2006, 20:52 Post: 123121
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I found two pontoons 27'from an old boat for $500. The only info I could get was there was no way to stop them or assure any pontoon from leaking. When under the boat they can be trailered out and drained. That is the only reason i did not jump on it, but that was the cheapest way by far. Build a couple of ramps and I am there. Do you know a way to asure that they will not leak because if they sink water is 9 lbs per gallon over 50 gals and that mean I will need a around a 60ton crane min and a crew of riggers.






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 01-20-2006, 21:19 Post: 123128
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OK explain pre loading drop anchors. I was going to tie what ever i do with nylon lines on all four corners, anchored on the island and the dike is this close to what you mean. Bad weather is not a problem, the dike is appox. 12' higher than the island but I can make a landing from cinder blocks and concrete to support the ramp. I like your pond, mine is similar with sea wall and all.






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 01-20-2006, 22:04 Post: 123141
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OK the way you are telling me is that the anchors will be under water and not tied off to the Island. Got ya. Du that was the reason for the barrels. It does not take long for the pond to fill in and all of the dike to wash away. Old carpet works great until grass or sea walls come to bear.






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 01-21-2006, 15:35 Post: 123175
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Ok I'm Back. Boy we are making head way now, the flat bed trailer hit the spot. Down here there is a 14' wide burned out mobile home on almost every corner. I can cut the frame to what ever size needed. Any ideas on decking and how to attach.






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 01-22-2006, 15:20 Post: 123238
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CB

You are 100% correct the flatbed trailers are rated in tons and would be far superior to the mobile home system. The Mobile home frame would be eaiser for me to cut and weld if I could get a load rating that would be up to the task. The only thing that I should be driving to the Island is my snapper (lawn mower that is). I have seen the size of some of the individuls that live in these mobile units and the frames may carry more of a load rating than we may be aware of.






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 01-23-2006, 15:00 Post: 123290
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 bridge for Island

Art
Do you think Installing cross ties(welding)cut from the part of the frame I do not need would be a proper method to obtain the support.

Murf
OWSJ's maybe found at what kind of company. Can they be purchased in 10' or so lengths and then bolted together.
Is prefab the method for these units.

Peters
This is the answer I got back from Jetfloat maybe in the future they will come stateside.
Dear Mr Padgett,

We have received your enquiry via our UK representative.
Unfortunately we have no dealers in the USA and due to a lack of capacity in
our local sales department we regret to advise that we are unable to assist
you with your enquiry.

With best regards
JETFLOAT INTERNATIONAL
Gesellschaft m.b.H.
Yolande Vercammen







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 01-23-2006, 15:36 Post: 123296
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 bridge for Island

understood, kind of a can I do it sort of thing. I have been using the boat method. Island is Ga. red clay slick as eel slime not easy to load and off load. If I have to build a landing area might as well make a bridge. Both kids moved away and took the raft.






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 01-23-2006, 18:40 Post: 123320
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KW
Ann did have a great Idea do you think the interstate should be two or three lanes.






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 01-23-2006, 18:49 Post: 123323
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CB
You gotta love America. Not a problem my wife has a good job.






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 01-24-2006, 17:42 Post: 123412
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 bridge for Island

I have been presented with a plan. 4" X 6" 16'wooden beams knotched and attached with two steel 3' X 6" 1/4" plates bolted through the four by sixes. Built in a roof truss design and set on concrete slabs on each end. If necessary it could be supported in the middle with one 4 X 6 post on each side. The decking would be 2 X 6 4' long. 4' hand rails would be part of the load bearing structure. All Items will be treated. The price is around $800.00 to $1000.00. Anyone see where I may run into problems with this now or down the line.






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 01-25-2006, 17:48 Post: 123487
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 bridge for Island

Kt and Murf,

I was given this plan, and did not think it had a chance in hell of working. Just for note he wanted the hand rails made out of 4 X 6's. I work with cranes and weight everyday and this was way out there. I got just the kind of reaction I wanted from this post good logical thinking and guidance toward a workable bridge and have a little fun along the way. I was thinking of 2 X 10's with a plywood sandwich for strenght. Three of these spanning the pond supported in the middle with a post on the bottom. decking to be added with regular decking boards. Please don't quit on me now.






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 01-25-2006, 20:20 Post: 123501
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 bridge for Island

I am as much a country boy as country boy is. Beagle what the hell do I have to nail together to get me and the lawnmower to the Island in style. You are right resale value has a lot to do with it. Coastal marsh front is not cheep. A bridge to that island will look good.






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 01-25-2006, 20:33 Post: 123504
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time is running short tonight I will gather my thoughs and materials and post tommorow night.






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 01-26-2006, 16:44 Post: 123558
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Ann
you are determined to get me behind a push lawnmower. You think I am nuts, I have not discussed this with the wife. She works with an accounting firm you and her would have me swiming to the island with hand shears.

Murf
a gazebo the same size of the Island I would not have to cut anything, might as well add a bar. With the bar I would surly need hand rails on the bridge.

KT
I still have one to marry off so the wedding party sounds good to me.

Beagle
Went to the local buy any thing store, met a guy that builds docks. He has two 55' 12" X 12" treated beams that he builds docks from. I can cut them to suit. He gave me the number of a person who may already have beams cut to size I will check with him tomorrow. At the store this guy had bought floats for a dock and his customer backed out. They are 3' x 4' by 3' high thick plastic, you for some reason cannot use styrofoam for docks any more. $90 for the floats apiece the beams $140 to $150. Is this a good start. The floats are if I need a floating dock. Might get the foats for future use.






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 01-26-2006, 17:46 Post: 123564
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 bridge for Island

Ok lets say I have two 12 x 12 33long side by side spaning the to the Island. you lost me with the reinforcement 16' and I dont have a clue about the 23'. were you thinking I was only using one 12 X 12?






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 01-26-2006, 18:47 Post: 123569
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A picture is worth a thousand words. The light bulb is now on. Now that I am up to speed, let me talk to the owner of the lumber tomorrow. Boy we went through some changes on that one here. Laughing out loud






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 01-26-2006, 19:28 Post: 123575
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we are talking about two different guys. The guy with the 55 footers does not want to cut them but he will if this other guy does not work out.






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 01-27-2006, 16:57 Post: 123618
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Went by the lumber man and ordered two 12" X 40' treated poles to be delivered next week. Each are marine treated and very nearly straight. They start out 13 1/2" and taper to 8 inches. gone for the weekend.






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 01-30-2006, 15:10 Post: 123786
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They are 40'ers you dont think that we could cut of the last 8' and have something that would work for the span.
They are treated for marine use in salt water. This taper would make them 13 1/2" on one end and 10" on the other. Not to late to turn off the order.






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 01-30-2006, 15:50 Post: 123789
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sounds good to me, just wondering, 40' wont span 32, you are correct i need a picture.






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 01-30-2006, 16:30 Post: 123792
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I have all plans of pictures and updating to a premium member. This is a geat forum. You dont have to wait for the bridge for a cook out I do love a party. Doors open, pond is full of fish.






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 01-30-2006, 18:21 Post: 123808
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beagle
Not catching onto the Termonology was killing me. The drawing is highly outstanding. I will look into some beams now that I got "free span" in my head I think that is the way to go. Two 32' X 12" X 12" and two 16' X 12" X 12". If I have paid attention this is the minimum that I will need. Timbers or poles are all that I have seen so far. This is why you ask questions, keeps me from spending all of my wifes hard earned money.
KT
Thanks for the pointing out the word "free". Still did not have a clue until I saw the drawing.






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 01-30-2006, 19:12 Post: 123817
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MY fault the 55'ers are also tapered poles intended for building docks. I will look for beams. The local lumber store had 25 footers but they maybe able to help me out.

POLES ------ round or round and tapered

BEAMS ------ square or rectangle

dont give up on me.






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 01-30-2006, 21:13 Post: 123828
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A 300lb lawn mower and 200lbs of me at the most at one time. I would rather not do the post in the pond thing if we can get around it spaning the 32 ft sounds good. I'm in Ga. we do everything slow, it is hard to read as fast as you write.






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 03-08-2006, 16:43 Post: 125815
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Cheezy

What weight limit do you think your bridge is good for?
How did you make the attachments for the decking? Do you have any specs?

KT

33' 12" X 12" treated timbers are very hard to find have to be special cut, and they want an arm and a leg. I was looking for the cheapest way or the less expensive way to have a bridge. Right now I have the cheap push lawn mower on the Island that should make Ann happy. You should have seen that show with the lawn mower in the boat and the off load evolution in that wet red clay. My wife was in shock and awe after putting eyes on me. I should have taken pictures you would have loved it. I hope to have the beams ASAP.






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 03-08-2006, 18:32 Post: 125827
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I am intrested but dont have the info.






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 03-08-2006, 21:09 Post: 125836
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KT

Aint cheezy the guy that has the pole bridge. I read his post slo-----wer this time and it appears that he used a 4 foot dia tube with 1/4" thick walls. Is that correct. That is one hell of a bridge. Steel is 40lbs for 12" X 12" x 1" thick. So the way I got it figured one span is 11,200lbs of weight. I dont know it My 2425 farm pro is up to that.






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 03-08-2006, 21:42 Post: 125842
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What is TS is this expanded metal? 4' x 4' X 1/4" thick square tubing. I may need another picture Beagle.






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 03-30-2006, 21:03 Post: 126925
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Hey Beagle

check out this link and see if it makes any sense to you for my project.






Link:   Click Here 

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 03-31-2006, 14:16 Post: 126969
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I see what you mean, where all the bolts hold the boards together will hold moisture and go down hill from there. I did notice the step type foundaions that they were using. Any way all those boards add up and will take some labor (several people).

I have priced several beams and trying to find the best for the cheapest. You and I had discussed using 12" by 12" beams I was going with the 35' span with a 20' brace. Would it make a great deal of difference if I used a 10" X 10" beam. The distance to span is 32' I was going with 35' as to have enough to set on the footing.






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 04-03-2006, 16:35 Post: 127119
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SOUTHERN PINE down here there are very few other kinds. Laughing out loud






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 04-04-2006, 17:48 Post: 127200
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Beagle
The sketch is #20 on your pictures. I was going to make the support beam 24'. Is that correct?






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 04-05-2006, 18:08 Post: 127275
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Thanks beagle I'll get to work on the orders.






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+ Rope Fence for Pool Yard Entrance
+ Plastic white fence
















Turbochargers for Tractors and Industrial Machines
Cab Glass for Tractors and Industrial Machines

Alternators for Tractors and Industrial Machines
Radiators for Tractors and Industrial Machines

Driveline Components for Tractors and Industrial Machines
Starter Motors for Tractors and Industrial Machines